You have to reach in from the battery opening to touch the plastic material. I will not be home until the week end.Īs far as the little panel goes, I am remembering a little flap of plastic covering the back side of the panel. I will try this on one of my mounts when I get home and see. I am thinking that when the scope is turned on, even without a handset being plugged in, you should see a little red light glow on the front of the scope in the little panel where the switch is. I am away from my home right now and am working from memory. I have run into troubles a time or two with these. With new batteries, it should be about 9 volts. Check the voltage with batteries in it and see what you get. One thing you might check out first is the battery carriage or frame that the mount plugs onto. The central bolt really only needs to be finger tight and then maybe just a tweak with a wrench. That can pinch the pin bearing and make it jam. When you put the central bolt back in place, do not over tighten. When you go back together, gently work the bowl back into position and rotate it back and forth to allow the worm gear that you will see to mesh with the bull gear that is mounted on the central shaft. I have not tried to take the main part of the metal frame away from the plastic housing (have not had a need) and do not know if you can without tearing up the mount. The bell should come off, pulling the shaft out and exposing the insides of the lower section. Just pull on the lower section and slowly rotate it back and forth. Under that, you should see the end of the central shaft, which is part of the lower bell casting. Under the bolt, with your generation II mount (unless there have been new changes) there will be a washer and a radial pin bearing. You can pull the bottom bell off of the mount, which exposes the printed circuit board and most of the wiring by unscrewing the central bolt, which is under the battery holder. These mounts are made in China and come as a unit with no spare parts being available, other than extra battery holders and different size telescope mount rings to hold the scope on the mount.
#MEADE AUTOSTAR DS2000 PARTS PROFESSIONAL#
Not being all that electrically inclined, even though I work for a power company in my professional life, I have avoided most of that. I know quite a bit about them mechanically, from pulling them apart. Pretty much, we are all flying blind on the inside of the DS mounts. No telling how much time and money this saved me. I could not even find anyone who sells just a 494 Autostar, so Maybe this will help another poor soul whose jack gets separated from On top) from the rear where the cable goes in, the order from left to I was not sure of the order, and could not find pinouts at Then I pushed each wire into the connectors inside the IĬlipped the exposed ends off the 8 wires coming out of the coiled cable I happened to have an RJ-45 modular jack in my ethernet kit. My Autostar 494 cable pulled out of the 8 pin jack that plugs into myĮTX-60AT. I copied this from Mike Weasner's Mighty ETX Site:
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